Marston Mats

Before and during WWII, logistics and flexibility of options to deal with men and equipment guided technology.  With the expanded use of air power, addressing the logistical needs of aircraft became imperative.

“The most recent information from operations now in progress abroad indicates that permanent runways are out of the question in modern warfare (causing) the development of landing and take-off mats to assume the highest possible priority.”  (Maj. Gen. Henry H. Arnold, Chief of the Air Corps)

Runways for bombers based in rear areas could be built like standard highways. These plans for simple construction were almost obsolete as soon as made, for the Air Corps was even then designing heavier planes which called for runways of greater bearing capacity.

Constructing runways at the front and more elaborate ones farther back, as the planes being contemplated in 1939 dictated, would take a long time—long enough to interfere seriously with the striking power of the air arm.

The Air Corps expressed immediate interest in news that the British and French were laying down portable steel mats as a substitute for hard-surfaced runways.

In December 1939, the Air Corps asked the Engineers to develop a similar landing mat. Since practically nothing was known about the subject, the two services agreed that the Engineers would attempt to get more information from abroad, would canvass the American market for likely materials, and, after conducting field tests with loaded trucks, choose the most promising types for service tests with planes.

The military command noted, "The requirements may be divided into two separate categories: First, pursuit and observation, ie, light weight types; Second, bombardment, ie, heavy load types."  It seemed possible that "if no delays are incurred and if this project is pushed that some concrete decision can be arrived at by the first of the Fiscal Year 1941."

A pierced steel plank was developed at Waterways Experiment Station, an Army Corps of Engineers research facility in Mississippi.  The 21st Engineers, under the command of Col Dwight Frederick Johns, was assigned the task of investigating techniques for the rapid construction of air bases.

In November 1941, the first major aerial operation experiments took place at Marston, North Carolina.  The 21st Engineering Regiment (Aviation) constructed a 3,000-foot runway on virgin ground for use by the 1st Air Support Command.  The job took 11-days and used 18-railroad carloads of a new product known as pierced steel planking.  (Gabel)

It met expectations; and early in February 1942, the Engineers and Aviation groups agreed on a minimum of 15,000,000 square feet of mats. Thereafter demands increased rapidly.

By midsummer, the total required production of pierced plank mat was at 180,000,000 square feet—an amount that would consume from 70,000 to 100,000 tons of steel per month (about one third of the nation’s sheet capacity.)

While the Corps called it ”pierced (or perforated) steel planks (PSP,)” it adopted a name associated where it was initially tested – Marston Mats (named for the North Carolina City.)

The standardized, perforated steel matting was pierced with 87 holes to allow drainage; it was 10-feet long by 15-inches wide and weighed 66-pounds; a later aluminum version came in at 32 pounds.

The mats were often laid over the local vegetation, which varied depending on the location from loose straw to palm fronds. The sandwich of steel and vegetation absorbed moisture and cut the dust kicked up by heavy aircraft.

While the first planked airstrip took 11-days to install, by the end of World War II an airfield could be carried across the Pacific within a single cargo hold of a Liberty ship, and could be ready for aircraft to land 72 hours after unloading. (AirSpaceMag)

During raids, sometimes the mats were hit/damaged.  The Seabees constructed "repair stations" along the runway, each with foxholes for the repair crews and packages of 1600 square feet of Marston mat, the amount that experience showed was necessary to repair the damage from a 500-pound bomb.

Trucks were preloaded with sand and gravel and concealed around the runway. Following a hit on the runway, the repair crews would clear away the damaged Marston mat as the trucks were brought out to dump their loads in the crater.

100 Seabees could repair the damage of a 500-pound bomb hit on an airstrip in forty minutes.  In other words, forty minutes after that bomb exploded, you couldn't tell that the airstrip had ever been hit.  (Budge)

At first the US had Marston Mats to itself, but eventually the invention was shared with its Allies, including Russia under the Lend-Lease program.

Two-million tons of temporary runway were produced in WWII to bring American airfields to each island captured from the Japanese. Marston Mats have been used in every war since.   (AirSpaceMag)

The pierced plank mat continued to be the type requested by theater commanders. The Engineers admitted that the pierced plank mat “turned in a creditable performance through-out the world.”  (The Corps of Engineers)

Among other places, Marston Mats formed the 6,000-foot temporary runway at Morse Field - South Point, Hawaiʻi.  Likewise, the Kualoa Airfield at Kāneʻohe Bay had a Marston Mat ramp.  Kahuku Army Air Base started as a Marston Mat runway that was later paved.

In the later ‘reuse’ category, my mother found that aluminum Marston mats made great benches and re-potting surfaces for her orchids.

The image shows pierced steel planks (PSP) (Marston Mats) at Kualoa Airfield on Kāneʻohe Bay in the 1940.  .  In addition, I have added some other images in a folder of like name in the Photos section on my Facebook and Google+ pages.

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Gerrit P Judd

In 1828, the American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Mission (ABCFM) sent 20-people in the Third Company of missionaries to Hawaiʻi, including four ministers and their wives.

A physician and his wife accompanied the ministers, Dr. Gerrit Parmele Judd and Laura Fish Judd.  Dr. Judd was sent to replace Dr. Abraham Blatchely, who, because of poor health, had left Hawaiʻi the previous year.

Judd, a medical missionary, had originally come to the islands to serve as the missionary physician, intending to treat native Hawaiians for the growing number of diseases introduced by foreigners. He immersed himself in the Hawaiian community, becoming a fluent speaker of Hawaiian.  Judd soon became an adviser to and supporter of King Kamehameha III.

In May 1842, Judd was asked to leave the Mission and accept an appointment as "translator and recorder for the government," and as a member of the "treasury board," with instructions to aid Oʻahu’s Governor Kekūanāoʻa in the transaction of business with foreigners.

Up to that time there was no real financial system. The public revenues were received by the King and no distinction was made between his private income and that which belonged to the government or public.  Judd, as chairman of the treasury board, was responsible to organize a public accounting system.    (Hawaiian Mission Centennial Book)

As chairman of the treasury board he not only organized a system, he also helped to pay off a large public indebtedness and placed the government on a firm financial footing. (Hawaiian Mission Centennial Book)

In early-1843, Lord George Paulet, purportedly representing the British Crown, overstepped his bounds, landed sailors and marines, seized the government buildings in Honolulu and forced King Kamehameha III to cede the Hawaiian kingdom to Great Britain.

Paulet raised the British flag and issued a proclamation formally annexing Hawaii to the British Crown.  This event became known as the Paulet Affair.

Judd secretly removed public papers to the Pohukaina mausoleum on the grounds of what is now ʻIolani Palace to prevent British naval officers from taking them. He used the mausoleum as his office; by candlelight, and using the coffin of Kaʻahumanu as a writing desk, Judd wrote appeals to London and Washington to free Hawaiʻi from the rule of Paulet.

His plea, heard in Britain and the US, was successful, and after five-months of occupation, the Hawaiian Kingdom was restored and Adm. Thomas ordered the Union Jack removed and replaced with the Hawaiian kingdom flag.

Judd stood beside the King on the steps of Kawaiahaʻo Church to announce the news, translating Admiral Thomas’ declaration into Hawaiian for the crowd.

In November 1843, Judd was appointed secretary of state for foreign affairs, with the full responsibility of dealing with the foreign representatives.  He was succeeded by Mr. RC Wyllie, in March 1845, and was then appointed minister of the interior.

By that time, the King had become convinced that the ancient system of land tenure was not compatible with the progress of the nation, and he resolved to provide for a division of the lands which would terminate the feudal nature of land tenure (eventually, the Great Māhele was held, dividing the land between the King, Government, Chiefs and common people.

As part of the Māhele, on Judd's recommendation, a law was passed that provided for the appointment of a commission to hear and adjudicate claims for land. Such claims were based on prior use or possession by the chiefs and others; successful claims were issued Awards from the Land Commission.

In 1846, Judd was transferred from the post of minister of the interior to that of minister of finance (which he held until 1853, when by resignation, he terminated his service with the government.)

In 1850, King Kamehameha III sold approximately 600-acres of land on the windward side of Oʻahu to Judd.  In 1864, Judd and his son-in-law, Samuel Wilder, formed a sugar plantation and built a major sugar mill there; a few remains of this sugar mill still exist next to the Kamehameha Highway.

Later, additional acreage in the Hakipuʻu and Kaʻaʻawa valleys were added to the holdings (it’s now called Kualoa Ranch.)

In 1852, Judd served with Chief Justice Lee and Judge John Ii on a commission to draft a new constitution, which subsequently was submitted to and passed by the legislature and duly proclaimed

It was much more complete in detail than the constitution of 1840, and separated the three coordinate branches of the government in accordance with modern ideas.

Judd wrote the first medical book in the Hawaiian language. Later, Judd formed the first Medical School in the Islands.  Ten students were accepted when it opened in 1870, all native Hawaiians (the school had a Hawaiians-only admissions policy.)

Judd participated in a pivotal role in Medicine, Finance, Law, Sovereignty, Land Tenure and Governance in the Islands. Gerrit P Judd died in Honolulu on July 12, 1873.

“He was a man of energy, courage and sincerity of purpose. He was an able physician, and he developed great aptitude for the administration of public affairs. The benefit of his talents was freely and liberally given to a people who he knew needed and deserved assistance.”  (Hawaiian Mission Centennial Book)

The image shows Gerrit P Judd.  In addition, I have included other images in a folder of like name in the Photos section on my Google+ page.

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Kahahana

At the time of Captain Cook’s arrival (1778-1779), the Hawaiian Islands were divided into four kingdoms: (1) the island of Hawaiʻi under the rule of Kalaniʻōpuʻu, who also had possession of the Hāna district of east Maui; (2) Maui (except the Hāna district,) Molokaʻi, Lānaʻi and Kahoʻolawe, ruled by Kahekili; (3) Oʻahu, under the rule of Kahahana; and (4) Kauaʻi and Niʻihau, Kamakahelei was ruler.

Kahahana was high-born and royally-connected. His father was Elani, one of the highest nobles in the ʻEwa district on Oʻahu, a descendant of the ancient lords of Lihue. His mother was Kaionuilalahai, a sister of Peleioholani, King of Oʻahu, and a cousin of Kahekili, King of Maui.  (Fornander)

While still a child, Kahahana was sent to Maui to grow  up into young manhood in close contact with one of the most noted courts among the different island kings - the court of his relative, Kahekili.

Educated in all the athletic and warlike exercises, Kahahana was remarkable for his personal beauty and manly bearing. Handsome, brave and gallant, he was the idol of the Maui court and the pride of the Oʻahu aristocracy.  (Fornander)

In 1773, back on Oʻahu, Kūmahana was High Chief.  For six generations, Oʻahu Chiefs had always been loyal to the Kākuhihewa family and they were looked upon as their representative on the Oʻahu throne.  Here, Kualiʻi and Peleioholani (grandfather and father of Kūmahana) set a standard.

Kualiʻi was celebrated for his long life and other qualities.  Stern but just, Peleioholani's reign was a blessing to his kingdom of Oʻahu, which probably had never since the days of Maʻilikūkahi stood higher in population, wealth, and resources, than at the time of his death.  (Fornander)

Not so for Kūmahana.  His weaknesses and extravagancies were enough in three short years to alienate chiefs, priests and commoners.

While leadership was typically assumed via conquest or heredity, under Kūmahana, Chiefs, in conjunction with the High-priest Kaʻōpulupulu, called a public meeting to consider the situation of the country and for the avowed purpose of deposing Kūmahana.

Not a voice was heard nor a spear raised in defense of Kūmahana, who then and there was publicly decreed incompetent and unworthy to rule the Oʻahu kingdom. That meeting and the manner of the execution of its decree find few parallels in the most civilized of modern countries, where the people had to resort to revolution to protect the best interests of their country and their own well-being.  (Fornander)

Though Kūmahana had grown-up children at the time, the Oahu nobles passed them by in selecting a successor to the throne.  It was decided that Kahahana was the most available of all who could be accepted for their future ruler; this was the second king to be elected to succeed to the throne of Oʻahu, the first being Maʻilikūkahi who was his ancestor.

Kahahana was still in Kahekili's court on Maui at the time and when approached to release Kahahana to return to Oʻahu, Kahekili turned to Kahahana and said, “I permit you to go. Only do me this favor, that when you are firmly established on O‘ahu, you let the land of Kualoa and the ivory that drifts ashore (palaoa-pae) be mine; let these be my property on the island.”  (Kamakau)

Then the chiefs, lesser chiefs, priests, counselors, warriors and commoners gathered from the mountains of the interior to the seacoast at the principal place at Waikīkī to make Kahahana Chief over O‘ahu.  When word of Kahekili's request was made known to Kaʻōpulupulu he responded, "if you give away these things your authority will be lost."  (Kamakau)

"To Kualoa belong the water courses of your ancestors, Kalumalumaʻi and Kekaiheheʻe; the sacred drums of Kapahuʻulu, and the spring of Kahoʻahuʻula; the sacred hill of Kauakahi son of Kahoʻowaha of Kualoa. Without the ivory that drifts ashore you could not offer to the gods the first victim slain in battle; it would be for Kahekili to offer it on Maui, and the rule would become his. You would no longer be ruler."  (Koʻolaupoko HCC)

In Hawaiian tradition, the lands of Kualoa were considered to be the symbol of sovereignty and independence for Oahu, and were closely protected by the Oahu chiefs and priests.  (NPS)

The ahupuaʻa of Kualoa was once famed for the “ivory that drifts ashore (Palaoa-pae)”. The combination of wind, current and reef brought to the Kualoa shoreline the bodies of dead whales.  Whale ivory that washed ashore was considered sacred.

One of the most powerful symbols of status was the whale tooth lei or lei niho palaoa. The beaches of Kualoa on O‘ahu were a major collection point for whale ivory and as such this ‘āina was considered the spot to control in order to possess all of O‘ahu. (Bishop Museum)

Kaʻōpulupulu also strongly stated that if Kahahana had obtained the kingdom by conquest, he might do as he liked, but having been chosen by the Oʻahu chiefs, it would be wrong in him to cede to another the national emblems of sovereignty and independence. Kahahana and the chiefs agreed with Kaʻōpulupulu's arguments, decided not to comply with the Kahekili's demands.

All seemed OK, for a while.  When war broke out between Kalaniopuʻu of Hawaiʻi Island and Kahekili in 1779, Kahahana had come to the aid of Kahekili.

Later, things soured.

“At that time, Kahekili was plotting for the downfall of Kahahana and the seizure of Oʻahu and Molokaʻi, and the queen of Kauaʻi was disposed to assist him in these enterprises."  (Kalākaua)

In a meeting between Kahahana and Kahekili, Kahekili deceived Kahahana by having him believe Kaʻōpulupulu had offered the government and throne of Oʻahu to him (Kahekili), but that out of affection for his nephew he had refused; and he intimated strongly that Kaʻōpulupulu was a traitor to Kahahana.

Kahahana believed the falsehoods and it subsequently caused friction between Kahahana and Kaʻōpulupulu and the Oʻahu King turned a deaf ear to his kahuna's advice and by the later part of 1782 or beginning of 1783, he arranged to have Kaʻōpulupulu killed.

With his main obstacle removed, Kahekili prepared for an invasion against Oʻahu and Kahahana.  He landed at Waikīkī in the beginning of 1783.  Kahekili, dividing his forces in three columns, marched from Waikīkī by Pūowaina (Punchbowl,) Pauoa and Kapena to battle Kahahana and his forces.

Kahahana's army was routed, and he and his wife fled to the mountains.  For nearly two years or more they wandered over the mountains, secretly aided, fed and clothed by his supporters.  Kahekili's warriors finally found and killed Kahahana.

Kahekili and his eldest son and heir-apparent, Kalanikūpule, conquered Kahahana, adding Oʻahu under his control.   (Kahekili’s son, Kalanikūpule, inherited his kingdom; Oʻahu was later lost to Kamehameha in the Battle of Nuʻuanu (1795.))

The image shows Kualoa (KualoaRanch.)  Lots of information here from Kamakau and Fornander.)

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Battery Cooper

Coast Artillery existed as a distinct branch within the Army since 1901 and as a combatant "line" arm after 1920. Its stated mission was to protect fleet bases, defeat naval and air attacks against cities and harbors, undertake beach defense while acting as army or theater reserve artillery, and provide a mine-planter service.

Prior to the war, Oʻahu defenses were divided between Pearl Harbor and Honolulu Harbor; however, with more military facilities being constructed on the island, the coastal defense program also expanded.

In 1940, the Navy decided to acquire all of Mōkapu Peninsula to expand Naval Air Station Kāneʻohe, a sea plane base it had started building in September 1939 and would commission on February 15, 1941.

Between 1939 and 1943, large sections of Kāneʻohe Bay were dredged for the dual purposes of deepening the channel for a sea plane runway and extending the western coastline of the peninsula with 280-acres of coral fill.

With the development of Kāneʻohe Bay into a major naval air base, there was a need for additional coastal defense in that area.

Eventually, Kāneʻohe Bay was protected by three battery installations.  Two were built on the installation and the third was built at Lae-o-Ka-Oio, in the vicinity of what we now call Kualoa Ranch.

In about 1944, construction project ‘302’ was started for Kaneohe’s 3rd battery.  It had two 6-inch guns, built at the northern reaches of Kāneʻohe Bay.  Local engineers modified the conventional plans to fit local geographic conditions.

The battery was not named until after the end of the war (it was later named, Battery Cooper (after Avery J Cooper)) and it served for about 5-years as part of the World War II-era coastal defense program.

The site was fit for tunneling – it had soft volcanic rock and with the rugged terrain, it was decided to tunnel, rather than cut and cover the gun emplacement.

The tunneling provided a better-protected and lower-cost alternative compared to the cut and cover traditional construction.

The battery was built into the face of the cliff and had concrete-lined tunnels leading to the gun positions.  The tunnels led back 150-feet into the cliff and had rooms off of the 45-degree tunnels for magazine and support facilities.

The battery commander’s station and radar room were 75-feet above the gun level.  This was connected internally by stairs in a narrow shaft.

It wasn’t the only military facility in the vicinity.  On the level land below the cliff and extending to what we now refer to a Kualoa Beach Park was the Air Force’s Kualoa Airfield.

The Kualoa Airfield was operational from about 1942 to as late as 1947.   It had a single 6,500' (north-south) runway formed of pierced steel planking.  A row of revetments for protected aircraft parking was along the west side of the runway near the cliff.

At the end of the war, the military facilities were turned over to the private land owner (Kualoa Ranch.)

Although no longer used for military defenses, Battery Cooper is being used as a movie museum about films that have shot scenes in Kaʻaʻawa Valley.

Some of the many productions that have utilized Kualoa locations include: Karate Kid, 1984; Revealing Evidence, 1990; Jurassic Park, 1993; The Phantom, 1996; George of the Jungle, 1997; Mighty Joe Young, 1998; Krippendorf Tribe, 1998; Godzilla, 2000; Pearl Harbor, 2001; Windtalkers, 2002; Tears of the Sun, 2003; The Rundown, 2003; Along Came Polly, 2003; Fifty First Dates, 2004; You, Me & Dupree, 2006; Byrds of Paradise (TV), 1994; Fantasy Island (TV), 1999; Magnum PI (TV); Lost (TV) and Hawaii 5-0 (TV, old & new versions.)

Tours are offered that take guests to the Battery to see the “movie museum,” then guests are taken on a guided tour into the valley, where most of the movies were filmed.  (Visit Kualoa.com for more information.)  Lots of information here from Williford, ‘Defenses of Pearl Harbor and Oahu 1907-1950’)

The image shows the gun emplacement area and entrance into Battery Cooper.   In addition, I have added other related images in a folder of like name in the Photos section on my Facebook and Google+ pages.

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Tree of Life

“If a man plant ten breadfruit trees in his life, which he can do in about an hour, he would completely fulfil his duty to his own as well as future generations.” (Joseph Banks, 1769)

Banks had been on the Endeavour with Captain Cook on his first voyage to the South Pacific in 1768-1771.  William Bligh was part of the Cook’s crew on its third voyage when it made contact with Hawaiʻi in 1778.

Bligh later captained the Bounty on a voyage to gather breadfruit trees from Tahiti and take them to Jamaica in the Caribbean. There, the trees would be planted to provide food for slaves.

Bligh didn’t make it back on the Bounty, his crew mutinied (April 28, 1789;) one reason for the mutiny was that the crew believed Bligh cared more about the breadfruit than them (he cut water rationing to the crew in favor of providing water for the breadfruit plants.)  Bligh’s tombstone, in part, reads he was the “first (who) transplanted the bread fruit tree.”

For thousands of years, Ulu (Breadfruit) was a staple food in Oceania.  It is believed to have originated in New Guinea and the Indo-Malay region and was spread throughout the vast Pacific by voyaging islanders.

According to a legend, the chief Kahai brought the breadfruit tree to Hawaiʻi from Samoa in the twelfth century and first planted it at Kualoa, Oʻahu. Only one variety was known in Hawaiʻi, while more than 24 were distinguished by native names in the South Seas.  (CTAHR)

It was a canoe crop – one of around 30 plants brought to the Hawaiian Islands by the Polynesians when they first arrived in Hawaiʻi.

“This tree, whose fruit is so useful, if not necessary, to the inhabitants of most of the islands of the South Seas, has been chiefly celebrated as a production of the Sandwich Islands; it is not confined to these alone, but is also found in all the countries bordering on the Pacific Ocean.”  (Book of Trees, 1837)

Known as ‘Ulu’ in Hawaiʻi and Samoa, ‘Uru’ is the Tahitian word for the tree, ‘Kuru’ in the Cook Islands, and ‘Mei’ in the Marquesas, Tonga and Gambier Islands, scientifically, it’s known as Artocarpus altilis.

William Dampier, claims credit for giving the fruit its English name, breadfruit. His description of it, from his 1688 Voyage Round the World, notes:
“The Bread-fruit (as we call it) grows on a large Tree, as big and high as our largest Apple trees. It hath a spreading head full of branches, and dark leaves. … When the fruit is ripe it is yellow and soft; and the taste is sweet and pleasant. The Natives of this Island use it for bread: they gather it when full grown, while it is green and hard; then they bake it in an Oven, which scorcheth the rind and makes it black: but they scrape off the outside black crust, and there remains a tender thin crust, and the inside is soft, tender and white like the crumb of a Penny Loaf. There is neither seed nor stone in the inside, but it is all of a pure substance like Bread; it must be eaten new; for if its kept above 24 hours, it becomes dry, and eats harsh and choaky; but 'tis very pleasant before it is too stale. The fruit lasts in season 8 months in the year, during which time the Natives eat no other sort of food of Bread kind.”  (Smith)

The breadfruit is multipurpose, it may be eaten ripe as a fruit or under-ripe as a vegetable – it is roasted, baked, boiled, fried, pickled, fermented, frozen, mashed into a puree, and dried and ground into meal or flour.

The Breadfruit Institute at the National Tropical Botanical Garden, Hawai‘i, is engaged in a Global Hunger Initiative to expand plantings of good quality breadfruit varieties in tropical regions.  The institute’s director is Diane Ragone, PhD.

Click here for a link to the NTBG Breadfruit Institute.

More than 80% of the world’s hungry live in tropical and subtropical regions – this is where breadfruit thrives.  The trees require little attention or care, producing an abundance of fruit with minimal inputs of labor or materials.

Trees begin to bear fruit in three to five years, producing for many decades.  Crop yields are superior to other starchy staples. An average-sized tree will readily produce 100-200 fruit per year.

The Breadfruit Institute manages the world’s largest collection of breadfruit, conserving over 120 varieties. The Institute has developed effective methods to propagate and distribute millions of plants of productive nutrient-rich varieties.

This initiative aims to disseminate breadfruit plants to alleviate hunger and support sustainable agriculture, agroforestry and reforestation in the tropics.

The same can hold true, here at home.

Centuries ago, the Hawaiians recognized breadfruit’s benefit and brought it with them to Hawaiʻi – we can learn from that.

The image shows a drawing of Ulu (breadfruit) by John Ellis, 1775.  In addition, I have included other images in a folder of like name in the Photos section on my Facebook and Google+ pages.

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Ka-uhi-‘īmaka-o-ka-lani

Ka-uhi-‘īmaka-o-ka-lani (‘the observant cover of the heavens’) was a demigod who had come to Hawaiʻi from (Kahiki) Tahiti with the fire goddess Pele and her followers.

When the followers made their home at Kahana, Ka-uhi-‘īmaka-o-ka-lani was sent to the ridge as a watchman to protect the valley – he was turned to stone.

While Hi‘iaka the goddess (Pele's younger sister) was returning to meet with Pele, as she approached Kualoa, she came upon a mo‘o (dragon) who tried to stop her.

Hi‘iaka crushed the evil mo‘o and left a piece of his tail as a landmark - Mokoli‘i at Kualoa (his body became the foothills below the steep Kualoa cliffs (‘long back’.))

Today, because of the obvious shape of the island, many generally refer to Mokoli‘i island as “Chinaman’s Hat.”

Moving up the coast, Hi‘iaka came upon Ka-uhi-‘īmaka-o-ka-lani.  Ka‘uhi looked down "with eye-sockets moist with the dripping dew from heaven."

He wished to go with Hi‘iaka.  He asked her to free him and when she refused, the tried to tear himself loose and rose to a crouching position.

Today, this rock formation is called “Crouching Lion.”

(Note that ancient Hawaiians never had any Lions, or cats for that matter; the context of what you see is not the same as what they saw - today’s reference is based on modern interpretations of the stone formation.)

Just below the rock formation is the former home of George F. Larsen, a Honolulu contractor who emigrated from Norway; the main structure was a family residence in the mid-1920s.

George and Agnes had six children.

George Jr. became the first Chief of Police on Maui in 1939.  Stanley rose to the ranks of 3 star general after attending West Point; he fought in the Pacific during World War II.  Young Agnes was well known in the 1930s and 1940s as a ceramicist and sculptor.

The house was at first to be their weekend retreat.  Later, they lived there full time and the kids commuted over the Pali to Punahou each day.

Mr. and Mrs. Larsen slept upstairs in a bedroom, while everyone else used the Hawaiian style hikie‘e (a large couch – literally translates to ‘upon your bed’) placed around the great room below.

The construction had 12-by-12 timbers, used for the exterior and interior – the massive logs used in the framework were floated to Kahana Bay (‘cutting or turning point’) – the practice of putting the logs in salt water was used to help discourage termite infestation.

In 1937, the home was sold and in the 1940s it became a Roadside Inn.

In 1952, the landmark property in Ka‘a‘awa (‘the wrasse fish’) opened as a restaurant by John Lind (father to Ka‘a‘awa resident, Ian Lind,) back in 1952.

John Lind was in the hotel and restaurant supply business and saw the building and site as a great round-the-island stopover restaurant.

It changed hands after that.

Like many others, while traveling along the Koʻolauloa coast, we often stopped at the Crouching Lion Inn for a meal – and always paused or looked out the window every time we passed “Crouching Lion” (Ka-uhi-‘īmaka-o-ka-lani) as we drove by.

The image shows Ka-uhi-‘īmaka-o-ka-lani.  In addition, I have included other images of the geologic feature and the adjoining facility in a folder of like name in the Photos section on my Facebook and Google+ pages.

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Samuel G Wilder

Samuel Gardner Wilder was born June 20, 1831 in Massachusetts. Wilder arrived in Honolulu in the clipper ship White Swallow in the year 1857, that same year he married Elizabeth Kinaʻu Judd, daughter of missionary doctor and politician Gerrit P. Judd.

Their honeymoon voyage to New York on the chartered White Swallow went via Jarvis Island, where Wilder picked a load of guano for sale on the continent.

“Samuel G Wilder has had the career of a man of more than ordinary ability and energy whose private enterprises and public services have both in a large degree been a benefit to the country of his adoption.”  (Hawaiian Gazette July 31, 1888.)

Upon returning to the islands, in 1864, Wilder and his father in law (Judd) set up a partnership for a sugar plantation at Kualoa, and built the mill and the stone chimney together.

The mill is associated with a tragedy when Willy Wilder, the nine year old son of Samuel Wilder, fell into a vat of boiling syrup during processing. He died a few days later from his severe burns.

By 1867, the decision to end the Judd-Wilder venture at Kualoa was made.  The mill ground its last crop during the summer of 1868.  After the failure of the plantation, the land was used a pasture for cattle and horses under the name of Kualoa Ranch.

He was later in the lumber business, but his wealth and prominence started in the interisland steam transportation business.  Starting with the Kilauea, then the Likelike, then many more, he formed a flotilla of interisland carriers and later organized them under the Wilder Steamship Company.

The Wilder organization had strong competition from the Inter-Island Steam Navigation Company, which developed from the activities and interests of Captain Thomas R. Foster.

In 1905, the Wilder Steamship Company merged with the Inter-Island Steam Navigation Company, forming the largest fleet of steamers serving Hawaiʻi. That company started the first scheduled commercial airplane service in 1929 as Inter-Island Airways and became Hawaiian Airlines in 1941.

His life included politics and King Lunalilo appointed Wilder to the House of Nobles.  King Kalākaua later appointed Wilder to his Cabinet, where he served as Minister of the Interior from 1878-1880.

He was a businessman rather than a politician, and his watchword was efficiency and economy in administration. He applied to the business of government the same ability and energetic leadership that won him success in his private business enterprises.  (Kuykendall)

Mr. Wilder’s administration of the Department of the Interior was characterized by a well-defined policy of extensive internal improvements.  Wilder vigorously pushed forward the construction of roads and bridges with other public conveniences, including the Marine Railway.  (Hawaiian Gazette July 31, 1888)

During his term in office that Kulaokahuʻa, the “plains,” between Alapaʻi and Punahou streets mauka of King Street in Honolulu, was opened for settlement. Work on ʻIolani Palace was begun and preliminary railroad surveys were made on the island of Hawaiʻi. Wilder’s influence was felt in all departments of the government.  (Kuykendall)

In 1878 Wilder established the first telephone line on Oʻahu, from his government office to his lumber business.  King Kalākaua then purchased telephones for ʻIolani Palace.  (Charles Dickey in Haiku, Maui had the first phones in the islands (1878;) connecting his home to his store.)

In 1881, Wilder initiated a railroad connecting the Mahukona port with the plantations in North Kohala on the Big Island (Niuliʻi to Mahukona;) he later bought the Kahului Railroad Company.

Wilder was appointed and later elected to the legislative assembly and served as its president.  “He was a practical parliamentarian; just, prompt and precise in his rulings combining rare tact with energy in the dispatch of business.”  Hawaiian Gazette July 31, 1888)

At this time, the Bayonet Constitution was enacted which created a constitutional monarchy much like that of the United Kingdom – this stripped the King of most of his personal authority and empowered the legislature.

The 1887 constitution made the upper house of the legislature elective and replaced the previous absolute veto allowed to the king to one that two-thirds of the legislature of the Hawaiian Kingdom could override.   Wilder supported the monarchy and told the King that he did not think the monarchy could last much longer.  (Kuykendall)

Mr. Wilder had advised the King to enter at once into negotiations with the United States to part with the sovereignty of the country while he was in a position to do so with advantage, and before affairs became more complicated.  Kalākaua did not follow the advice given to him by Wilder.  (Kuykendall)

King Kalākaua conferred upon Mr. Wilder the distinctions of a Knight Commander of the Royal Order of Kalākaua and Grand Officer of the Royal Order Crown of Hawaiʻi.

“This generous and many-sided man tended with loving care to the deserving, with charitable purpose to the poor and with patriotic conscientiousness to the wants of his country.”  (Daily Bulletin August 7, 1888)

The former Kaʻahumanu Wall, from Punchbowl to Mōʻiliʻili, followed a trail which was later expanded and was first called Stonewall Street.  It was also known as “Mānoa Valley Road;” later, the route was renamed for Samuel G. Wilder (and continues to be known as Wilder Avenue.)

The image shows Samuel G Wilder; in addition, I have added other images in a folder of like name in the Photos section on my Facebook and Google+ pages.

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Kualoa Airfield

Kualoa is an ancient Hawaiian land division (ahupua‘a) at the north end of Kāne‘ohe Bay, windward O‘ahu.  The ahupua‘a extends from the coast to the top of the nearly vertical, fluted mountain behind.

The area of Kualoa Regional Park has been modified in the past as a result of different land uses.  Prior to World War II the lands were part of the sugarcane plantation of Kualoa.

The lands were converted to a fighter airfield during the World War II period, and reverted to grazing use after the war. The City and County of Honolulu condemned the land in the 1970s and converted it into a park.

Behind the beach at Kualoa Beach Park and running into the Kualoa Ranch property was a temporary facility used for a World War II airfield.

Kualoa airfield was evidently constructed during the early portion of WWII (maybe around 1942) and probably used as a satellite field for units assigned to Bellows Field, and was used mainly for training.

The earliest depiction of the field which has been located was a May 10, 1942 photo of Kualoa Field, which showed the field as having a single north/south runway.

It was depicted as having a single 6,500' (north-south) runway.  No evidence suggests that Kualoa was ever paved.

The entire runway was formed of pierced steel planking. The steel planking makes a strong case that the military had no plans to keep Kualoa open any longer than it was needed.

The road to Ka‘a‘awa and farther up to the north shore crossed over Kualoa’s runway, so the cars would have to wait whenever an airplane took off.

A row of revetments for protected aircraft parking was along the west side of the runway.

Several fortified bunkers for coast artillery batteries were constructed in the cliffs overlooking Kualoa Field during WW2.

The 28th Photographic Reconnaissance Squadron, operating P-38, F-4 and A-24 aircraft was stationed at Kualoa between October 9, 1944 and May 8, 1945.  The 18th Fighter Group, operating P-40s, also was stationed there briefly.

Since Kualoa Field had been constructed on land that was not owned by the military, it was returned to its original owners after WW2.

The Kualoa Airfield was closed at some point between 1944-1947 (as it was labeled "Kualoa AAB (Closed)" on the 1947 Hawaiian Islands Sectional Chart.)

The image shows Kualoa Airfield in about 1942.  In addition, I have included other images in a folder of like name in the Photos section on my Facebook and Google+ pages.

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Kualoa

Kualoa is an ancient Hawaiian land division (ahupua'a) at the north end of Kaneohe Bay, windward,  O‘ahu. The ahupua'a extends from the coast to the top of the nearly vertical mountain behind.

The entire ahupua‘a of Kualoa was placed on the State and National Registers of Historic Places in 1973; it is considered one of the two most sacred places on the island of O'ahu (along with Kūkaniloko).

Kualoa is also prominent in Hawaiian folklore and mythology including traditions of Papa and Wākea, Hāloa, Pele, Hi‘iaka, Kamapua‘a and mo‘o (lizard dragons).

Kualoa is important as a symbol of sovereignty and independence for O'ahu, its role as a place of refuge, its role as a place where sacrificial victims for religious rituals were drowned, and its history as a sacred residence of chiefs.

This is most clearly seen in the oral history tradition about the succession of Kahahana to the O‘ahu throne (1770s,) and the attempt by King Kahekili of Maui to con him out of Kualoa and the "palaoa-pae" (washed up whalebone and ivory along the O‘ahu coastline):
"Shortly after his installation, Kahahana called a great council of the Oahu chiefs and the high-priest Kaopulupuli and laid before them the demands of Kahekili regarding the land of Kualoa and the 'Palaoa-pae.'  At first the council was divided, and some thought it was but a fair return for the kindness and protection shown Kahahana from his youth by Kahekili; but the high-priest was strongly opposed to such a measure, and argued that it was a virtual surrender of the sovereignty and independence of O‘ahu.”

“Kualoa being one of the most sacred places on the island, where stood the sacred drums of Kapahuula and Kaahuulapunawai, and also the sacred hill of Kauakahi-a-Kahoowaha; and the surrender of the 'Palaoa-pae' would be a disrespect to the gods; in fact, if Kahekili's demands were complied with, the power of war and of sacrifice would rest with the Maui king and not with Kahahana.”

“He represented strongly, moreover, that if Kahahana had obtained the kingdom by conquest, he might do as he liked, but having been chosen by the O‘ahu chiefs, it would be wrong in him to cede to another the national emblems of sovereignty and independence. Kahahana and all the chiefs admitted the force of Kaopulupulu's argument,  and submitted to this advice not to comply with the demands of Kahekili. " (Fornander)

Numerous other writers have also reflected the feeling of sacredness for Kualoa.  Raphaelson says that Kualoa has always been sacred soil, to which the newborn children of the chiefs were brought to live and be trained in warfare and the ancient traditions of the Hawaiian chiefs.

Kamakau referred to Kualoa as being a very sacred place of refuge (pu‘uhonua) in ancient times where people fled for protection if they had broken a tabu.

Many authors say that all canoes passing seaward of Kualoa lowered their sails in acknowledgement of the nature of Kualoa as a sacred residence of chiefs.

Kualoa is also significant in Hawaiian folklore and mythology.  Reportedly, it was considered to be the sacred land of Hāloa, the son of Wākea and Papa, the progenitors of the Hawaiian people. One of the most important chiefly genealogies links through Hāloa and shows the importance of Hāloa, and therefore, of Kualoa.

Kualoa figures in the famous legends of Pele, the Volcano Goddess and her sister, Hi‘iaka, as well as in the legends of Kamapua‘a, the half-man, half-pig of O‘ahu.

Here, Pele's sister, Hi‘iaka, killed a huge mo‘o, or dragon, and the small island, Mokoli‘i, lying offshore, but part of Kualoa, is his tail. His body became the foothills below the steep Kualoa cliffs.

Kamapua‘a hid from Pele in a hollow at Kualoa, and later made the holes in the Kualoa mountains.

A shark god story exists about the area at Kualoa Point where the son of the shark god was fed by the people of Kualoa until a stingy chief stopped the feeding and claimed the fish that were usually fed him.  The shark god father of the starving son was enraged and created a tidal wave that killed the chief, but the people of Kualoa were saved.

In the 19th Century, an early Western family owned Kualoa and built a major sugar mill there.  A few remains of this sugar mill still exist next to the Kamehameha Highway, remnants of this early industry of O‘ahu which attained so much importance in later times.  During WWII an airfield was used at Kualoa.

Few physical remains still exist at Kualoa, in the past however, there were village areas, tapa manufacturing areas, religious, structures and ceremonial centers for hula.

Kualoa remains significant, even without physical remains of ancient sites, because of its central place in O‘ahu traditions and the feeling of the sacredness of the land.

Today, Kualoa is owned and cared for by the Morgan Family who operate a ranch and visitor activity center.  In addition, the property has been the site of many television shows and Hollywood films such as Jurassic Park, Windtalkers, Pearl Harbor, Godzilla, Tears of the Sun and 50 First Dates.  TV shows including the old and new Hawaii Five-O, Magnum PI and LOST.

They have demonstrated responsible stewardship of the land – and have worked to preserve and protect it from development.

The image is an aerial view of Kualoa Ranch (from kualoaranch).  In addition, I have included some other images of Kualoa in a folder of like name in the Photos section on my Facebook page.

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© 2012 Hoʻokuleana LLC